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42_64
Haifa, Palestine

Early this morning I looked out on the long ridge of Mt. Carmel, rising above the Bay of Acre and the town of Haifa. Away to the north I can see Acre behind its walls built into the sea. It was a strongly fortified place and some of Napoleon's cannon are still there as relics. Away down in that general direction is on the Lebanon range.

I went ashore at Haifa in order to dispatch two pieces of luggage to Jerusalem. After getting through the customs (three piastres) my luggage was shouldered by a Moslem and carried to the railway station, I walking along with him. At the station I received a half of a receipt (cut in two in the middle) and paid about _1.60. Having disposed of my luggage I went to the Ottoman Bank but found they had closed;
42_65
Jan. 29, 1926

between 12 and 3 they close daily. So I gave myself up to the street scenes in the narrow streets of the old town. What a [revelation] of Eastern life! For the first time I am in a truly Oriental town. For Constantinople is on Europe and is really a mixture. But here one feels the Old East he has read about, here in life, in living flesh and blood, are the types familiar in picture all one's life. One recognizes them instantly and yet there is so much more than is in the pictures! There is a quality, and essence, a character, a reality, an aroma, an atmosphere - ah that is the word I want! - let the word aroma stand - for the East has its own familiar smells - but these throngs in the streets
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