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13_8
Antwerp
[July 27, 1905]

at a little inn called the Chapeau Rouge where the walls were quaintly decorated with old time frescos. The place was near the house where Van Dyck was born, near the Cathedral whose chimes were constantly ringing the hours and fractions of hours, near the Grand Place where is the Town Hall and the old Guild Houses. The Guild Houses are very beautiful mediaeval structures and I sat in the square looking at them for one whole hour one evening-also drinking the poetry of the Cathedral tower which is in fine view from here. The whole city is profusely decorated with flags, the tricolor, Black Yellow and Red of Belgium, because the King, Leopold II and
13_9
[Antwerp]
July 27, 1905

Crown Prince Albert comes today. The street is packed with people leading into the Grand Place. A battalion of infantry in gorgeous uniforms preceded by mounted police come down the narrow street, crowding the people back. Then a band of music. Then more infantry. Then cavalry surrounding the retinue of royal carriages. The King and the Crown Prince are in the first carriage, flanked by a single line of cavalry with sabres. The monarch presented a very kingly appearance and ever and anon bowed his acknowledgements to the cheering populace. As he passed me I was within 10 feet of him, so narrow are the
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