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13_6
Antwerp
[July 26, 1905]

the most time to Ruben's great picture, the Descent of Christ from the Cross. This church was begun in 1352. I also visited the Church of St. Jacques which has even more sumptuous decorations. Of great interest is the old printing house of Plantin who set up his business in 1549. The same family carried on the business until 1876 when the fine building with its central court was given to the city. It contains thousands of rare old books, old presses, old type, old copper plates, and among the portraits are 15 by Rubens. At the Royal Museum I could have spent a month; I had just two hours. The statuary is fine and the collection of paintings by old and modern
13_7
[Antwerp]
July 26, 1905

masters is very great. Ruben's "Crucifixion of Christ" is here, "The Adoration of the Magi" and many others by the master and by Van Dyck. "The Entombment" by the latter is very celebrated. Quintin Matsys "Entombment of the Christ" I did not have time to study, giving it only a glance. Of the modern paintings which I enjoyed very much there were many that one sees in prints such as Cabanel's "Cleopatra testing poison on criminals." In order to see as much of the life of the city as possible I left the Hotel Central and went down into the heart of the city where they speak only French, sometimes German and took a room
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