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13_174
Ambelside and Windermere
[September 19, 1905]

I think Windermere the most beautiful of the Lakes on account of its wooded shores, narrowness and winding character, and diversity of the mountain slopes at the upper end.
Thirlmere is a pretty stretch on the way to Grasmere from Keswick, near Wythburn Church. The morning I came away from Lake Side (Windermere) was a most beautiful sunny morning! I enjoyed it but if it had been only so as I came down Windermere!
Stopped at Leeds, a great manufacturing city for a side trip to York. Leeds is modern, York is ancient. Had little time for anything but the Minster which is the finest minster in England. It is a huge pile, vast either from
13_175
[Ambelside and Windermere]
September 19, 1905

the outside or the inside. It is richly ornamented, yet both the exterior and interior are in a way simple, particularly the nave, which is exceedingly impressive, for its great height and the massiveness of its pillars, particularly those at the transepts which have to support the square tower. The last is a bit squatty compared with the aspiring and pretentious character of the edifice as a whole. It seems that Bishop Somebody, the chief architect back in 13 or 14 something intended to cap the tower with a spire, a lead-covered structure I think - but after getting the tower to its present height found that the foundation stones would not bear any greater weight. We were taken down into the crypt.

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